I have been living in NYC for three months now and I think I just had my first massive attack of Miami nostalgia. Through Facebook I’ve been able to keep in touch with friends in Miami much better than I probably would have otherwise, so that has kept the nostalgia at bay.
What finally brought on this nostalgia was a group I came across on Facebook, for people who had lived in South Beach in its heyday of the early 90s. Looking through the scanned polaroids people had posted, I finally got a glimpse of the world I had fantasized about for so long. It’s weird that the only thing that could trigger my South Beach nostalgia should be a collection of photos of people I never met from a time in South Beach that I never saw.
When I got to South Beach, people told me that the glory days had just ended a while before my move. That the last interesting boutiques on Lincoln Road had just closed and that the last interesting performers had just left.
I had a hard time getting to like South Beach. South Beach wasn’t very forthcoming. I didn’t know South Beach before getting here. South Beach didn’t care about that. I, though, was living on the edge of a precipice. I knew what was behind me in North Carolina, and the only thing ahead of me was a void. I was suspended over the void, surrounded by boys who were not my North Carolina boyfriend and by weird Christmas lights hung up in the heat.
Any time I walked past Lincoln Road’s new Gap, Williams-Sonoma, and Pottery Barn with someone from work who had lived there longer than me, they would tell me about what it was like a couple of years earlier, when Lincoln Road had tumbleweeds and the only people on Lincoln Road were the artists who found affordable studio space there. How much it had changed and how quickly. So much more expensive now, too, to eat out on Lincoln Road. What if I had visited South Beach a few years ago for spring break with the other students, and walked down Lincoln Road then, and seen it for myself? Would I have been able to pick up on all this enough to appreciate for myself how different it was now?
Another time during that first year, I saw a collection of art that had been produced in the time people were telling me about. It wasn’t particularly memorable. But in this collection, there were included a few snapshots of the artist’s kitchen. Apparently neighbors often stopped over at his kitchen for breakfast. His kitchen was a place where peopled talked and projects started. That got me thinking not only about what it would have been like to walk down Lincoln Road at that time visiting it long before my actual move, but about what it would have been like to already live here then. What artists lived next to me, and were they good or bad, did it matter. Did they pop over at weird hours to eat something or ask for help putting something together. What about the drug addicts and old people and other people who had been living in delapidated apartments keeping the city’s rents low. Was it exciting to live here or scary. Probably both, but what did that actually feel like on any random day?
Throughout my first year on the Beach I felt massively out of place. No one paid attention to me; it was all about muscled model-types who worked — I guess! — at Gap, Williams-Sonoma and Pottery Barn. It already felt like that South Beach that people were telling me about little by little had already disappeared so completely that there was not even any trace of its ever having been there. I had drug addicts for neighbors still, but they were neither interesting nor scary. They just kept getting evicted and replaced.
So I started to live in that mythical South Beach in my mind during my first summer in town. I wrote stories and sewed things and tried to cultivate friendships with anyone remotely interesting. I thought a lot about the “old” South Beach and figured that if I re-built it, they would come back.
In the meantime, I listened to everyone’s piecemeal stories of life in 80’s-90’s South Beach, and filled in the gaps myself. This is what I came up with.
Gay men came down from NYC starting in the 80s, many of them coming because they had AIDS and the medicines at the time left them especially vulnerable to the cold northern winters. They gradually took over apartments that had been deserted by the younger generations of Jewish families and subsequently neglected by Marielitos and random drug addicts. They fixed up their little apartments and then gradually revamped the entire Beach, helping to get it protected as a historic district. All the while, they were able to continue the heddy artistic vibe of 1980’s NY in this new place. Whether you were straight or gay or experimental didn’t matter; it only mattered that you wanted to have fun and make things beautiful no matter what you were. But actually you were probably gay. There were dozens of gay bars and clubs to go to, but everyone went to Warsaw. At Warsaw everyone had the wildest time every weekend. Celebrities went too, but you didn’t care because you were already having a good time without them. That’s why they kept coming.
The government turned a blind eye to everything. Your presence was edging out “undesirable” residents on its own, so the police just sit back and let you do whatever you wanted — even if that involved partying with the same “undesirables.”
We had the same little local free weekly newspaper, The Wire, but it was interesting then. Everyone read it and everyone wanted to write for it. There were “blind item” gossip columns. It was a big enough town that there was always something to gossip about, but small enough that everyone saw through the blind items. Some of the sights reported in The Wire happened at the 11th Street Diner next to Twist: unlikely dinner companions, that sort of thing.
People had breakfast on their balconies and playfully taunted friends they saw passing on the sidewalk. Their apartments were extensions of their studios, and they often woke up in someone else’s. Your friends opened boutiques to sell each other’s stuff. You spent a large amount of time at their boutiques getting ready for parties. You did not bother going to a party unless you wore a costume, or at least some special look. At one of these parties you saw your crazy neighbor dressed up in an outlandish look and gained a new respect for them. When friends came to visit, you had to hope that they liked the beach a lot or that they would hit it off with your friends because there wasn’t a lot else to do. Who are we kidding; of course they hit it off with your friends. I think they’re married now.
You knew you were living in the ruins of something fabulous that had been only partially restored, and you kind of liked it like that. You could see in your imaginary mind the rest of the course that the renovation would take, and it looked fabulous there, in your mind’s eye, so fabulous that the rest of the renovation did not actually need to happen. If it did, the landlord would charge you more than your usual $350 rent, and might make you re-paint your walls something more “upscale.”
Everyone probably carries in their head some idiosyncratic version of the local history of their neighborhood. That’s what makes you feel like you know a place, that you fit into it somewhere. But I think I was maybe living according to my own imagined South Beach history more than most people I shared the sidewalk with. I think the reason why these photos of the old South Beach made me so nostalgic, even though I never even visited the town back then, is that THAT was the South Beach that I was living in, even if it was only in my mind. I had never before seen a picture of my fantasy town, because you can’t take a photo of a fantasy. But someone had. Here they were, finally!
The people who had been here then were not much older than me, if at all. But they had lived through something I never would, which made them permanently different. It is unclear to me that this kind of time can exist anywhere anymore; everything is so strictly controlled and already has a chain store before anyone moves in. South Beach may have been the last frontier.
At first I thought that it was weird that the only thing that could trigger my nostalgia should be these photos of people I never met. But actually, one of the photos was of someone I did meet once. Someone named Juan Valdez, who I knew as Elena. I met Elena out one night at Twist, with a group of new friends. One of these groups of new friends I would meet one night and think were my gateway into some actual South Beach community I figured had to exist, until they too moved away or disappeared. Elena danced with us, and it was explained to me that she was a friend from the old days and that she was very sweet. I would see Elena walking down Lincoln Road dressed just as a man, and we would say hello and I think we exchanged small talk once or twice. Turns out she died one or two years ago. Geraldine told me when it happened, but I wasn’t sure we were thinking of the same person because Elena went by many names. I only knew one of them, but you knew more.
I never really met you, but somewhere out there, your future vision of a repainted, upscale South Beach whose impending arrival you always wanted to forestall meets my borrowed memory of a bygone free-wheeling South Beach just beyond my reach. I don’t know where that somewhere is but maybe it’s in my kitchen, and maybe someone will take a picture.